2023 Finalist: PHILIPPA HOOGSTEDEN CASEY
Old man overcoat
Integrating reclaimed textiles from the local Hospice shop, traditional Māori techniques, printing, stitching, and natural dyes.
This collection is about routines, rituals, and moments that litter the designer's world. Integrating reclaimed textiles from the local Hospice shop, traditional Māori techniques, printing, stitching, and natural dyes, waste is used to inspire the wearer and encourage them to appreciate, value and care for the unique beauty of textiles and our environment.
Harakeke is a feature, printed and stitched into the outfit, harvested from the designer's backyard. Using a gifted Kuku (mussel) shell the harakeke has been scraped and the fibres extracted, creating Muka for the tassels on the Old Man Overcoat and the button loops throughout these pieces. Any unused flax was returned to the earth.
An old Irish linen tea towel evokes memories of the designer's Dad, while wool and calico offcuts are pieced into a simple oversized reversible jacket to encompass the body, with the appliqued extracted Muka fibres woven in. Stitched to the design is the gifted tool, used to extract Muka.
The garment's pattern shapes are simple, for comfort, and to preserve the fabric for future use, avoiding cutting where possible.
Water based non-toxic inks and waste coffee and tea were used for dyeing and printing and gold print paste was added to give depth.
Vintage fabric, Muka, buttons reclaimed from old garments, and care labels from vintage stamps found in a secondhand shop are all elements that tell a story, intended to endear them as precious garments to the owner.